A contents claim is settled from a list of what you owned. After a total loss, you build that list from memory, in the worst week of your life, with none of the objects available to prompt you.
People routinely under-claim substantially for this reason. Not because they exaggerate less, but because they simply cannot remember what was in the drawers.
The fastest method that actually works
A complete written inventory is the ideal and almost nobody finishes one. Video is what people actually complete, and it captures far more than a list.
- Walk each room with your phone recording, narrating as you go. "Living room. Sofa, bought 2023, about $1,400. Television, 55-inch, bought last year."
- Open everything. Wardrobes, drawers, cupboards, the garage, the loft, the shed. This is where most of the forgotten value lives.
- Get close on anything of significance — serial numbers, labels, hallmarks.
- Do not forget the boring categories. Clothing, kitchenware, tools, linens, books. Individually modest, collectively a large proportion of a contents claim.
- Photograph receipts for higher-value items as you go.
An hour produces something far better than nothing, and it can be improved later.
Store it outside the house. Cloud storage, or email it to yourself. An inventory that burns with the house is not an inventory. The same applies to your policy documents.
What to record for higher-value items
- What it is, brand and model.
- Serial number where there is one.
- Purchase date and price, approximate is fine.
- Where it was bought, which helps establish value.
- Photographs from more than one angle.
- Receipts, appraisals, or certificates.
Categories people forget
Consistently, the same ones: contents of the garage and shed, tools, holiday decorations, sports and outdoor equipment, small kitchen appliances, the whole of a wardrobe, children's toys, and anything stored in a loft or basement.
These are rarely individually valuable and collectively substantial. A garage alone frequently runs to several thousand dollars of tools and equipment.
How the inventory connects to your limits
Once you have a rough total, compare it against your Coverage C limit. Many policies set contents coverage as a percentage of the dwelling limit, chosen without reference to what you actually own.
Also compare specific categories against the sublimits — jewellery, firearms, silverware, cash. That comparison tells you whether scheduling is worth considering, and it is a conversation that only becomes possible once you have the list.
Keeping it current
An inventory does not need constant maintenance. Two habits are enough: photograph significant purchases when they arrive, and repeat the video walkthrough once a year or after any major change.
If you have no inventory and a loss occurs
Reconstruct from whatever records exist. Bank and card statements, online purchase histories, photographs and videos taken in the home for other reasons, social media images that happen to show rooms, and receipts stored in email.
Take the time to do it room by room rather than trying to recall everything at once. Adjusters generally accept supplements as items are remembered, though there are deadlines — ask what yours is.
What we are not saying
We are not telling you what limits to carry. What we are saying is that a contents settlement is built from a list you have to produce, that memory produces a substantially incomplete one, and that an hour with a phone camera now is the difference.
Where to verify this yourself
- Your declarations page — the Coverage C limit and any scheduled items.
- Your policy — the special limits on categories of personal property, and the deadline for submitting a proof of loss.
- Your state Department of Insurance — consumer guides, several of which publish free inventory templates.
This is general education, not advice. Insurance law and claim rules vary by state and change over time. Nothing here is legal, financial, or insurance advice for your situation, and reading it does not create any professional relationship. For your specific case, consult a licensed professional in your state or contact your state Department of Insurance.